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Plants for Wet Soil

Too much water: Poor drainage
Poor drainage is often produced in disturbed sites when heavy clay soil is compacted by construction machinery; areas cultivated for plantings collect water running off the compacted ground (teacup effect). Wet areas may also be the result of swales, drain spout runoff and low areas even when soil percolation is adequate in most of the site.
When water stands in the soil, air is displaced, which in turn, smothers the plant roots? Once the roots are damaged many symptoms appear on leaves and shoots including wilting, marginal and inter-veinal browning of leaves (scorch), poor color and stunted growth.

Diagnosis: To check for a potential drainage problem, dig a hole at least 2 feet deep; fill with water and note how long the water remains. If it doesn’t drain away within 24 hours a drainage problem exists.

Correction: Divert water past plantings. Plant in mounds or raised beds. Install drain tiles. Amend the soil with organic matter such as Dr. Earth Pro Biotic Planting Mix. Select plants that tolerate wet sites.

The following trees and shrubs tolerate wet sites and flooding better than most. Few tolerate standing water for long periods (those that grow in truly swampy conditions are marked *).

SHADE TREES


Red Maple

*Acer rubrum Red Maple
*Betula nigra River Birch
Liquidambar styraciflua Sweet Gum
Nyssa sylvatica Black Gum
Platanus occidentalis Sycamore
Quercus phellos Willow Oak
*Salix Sp. Willow
*Taxodium distichum Bald Cypress

FLOWERING TREES


Magnolia

Amelanchier canadensis Serviceberry
Magnolia virginiana Sweetbay Magnolia

EVERGREEN TREES


Pyramidal Arborvitae

Calocedrus decurrens Incense Cedar
Ilex opaca American Holly
Thuja occidentalis Pyramidal Arborvitae

DECIDUOUS SHRUBS


Viburnums

*Aronia arbutifolia Chokecherry
Clethra alnifolia Summer Sweet
*Cornus Sp. Twig Dogwoods
Enkianthus campanulatus Enkianthus
Ilex verticillata Winterberry Holly
*ltea virginica Virginia Sweetspire
Lindera benzoin Spicebush
*Rhododendron viscosum Swamp Azalea
*Salix Sp. Pussy Willow
Viburnum Sp. Viburnums

EVERGREEN SHRUBS


Mountain Laurel

*Andromeda polifolia Bog Rosemary
*Chamaecyparis thyoides Whitecedar
*Ilex glabra Inkberry
Kalmia latifolia Mountain Laurel
Leucothoe Sp. Leucothoe
Thuja occidentalis Arborvitae

PERRENIALS


Hibiscus

Aster nova-angliae Aster
Astilbe Sp. Astilbe
Chelone Sp. Turtlehead
Cimicifuga racemosa Snakeroot
*Cyperus Sp. Sedges
Ferns Many Varieties
Helenium autumnale Helen’s Flower
Hibiscus moscheutos Hardy Hibiscus
*Iris kaempferi Japanese Iris
Iris siberica Siberian Iris
*Lobelia cardinalis Cardinal Flower
Lobelia syphilitca Blue Lobelia
Monarda didyma Bee Balm
Myosotis scorpiodes Forget-me-nots
Tiarella cordifolia Foam Flowers
Trollius europaeus Globe Flower
Viola Sp Violets

GROUND COVERS


Hosta

Galium odoratum Sweet Woodruff
Gaultheria procumbers Wintergreen
Hosta sp. Hosta
Mentha sp. Mint
Parthenocissus quinquifolia Virginia Creeper

ANNUALS


Pansy

Cleome hasslerana Spider Flower
Myosotis sylvatica Forget-me-nots
Torenia fournieri Wishbone flower
Viola wittrockiana Pansy

Winter Damage

It’s early spring; time to survey the damage that this exceptionally hard winter has produced. Many shrubs may still be hiding under piles of frozen snow. Severed tree limbs lie scattered across the landscape. It’s difficult to know what to tackle first.

TREES

Start with your trees, they are generally the most valuable additions to you property. As you survey the damage ask yourself “Is this tree salvageable or should it be removed?” If the damage is extensive, or you are unsure, hire a professional for a consultation. Replacing a severely damaged tree with a younger one, perhaps a type that you like even better, may be the best solution.

If a limb is broken somewhere along its length, or damaged beyond repair, enlist good pruning practices and saw off the remaining piece at the branch collar being careful not to cut into the trunk or leave a stub. Sometimes a fallen limb may strip bark off the tree trunk. To repair this damage, cut the ragged edges of the loose bark away from the stripped area to firmly affixed healthy bark. Nature will take care of the rest. If the trunk of the tree is split, the tree may still be saved. For large trees, repairing this type of damage usually requires cabling and bracing done by a professional. If the tree is still young, the crotch may be pulled tightly together and tied or taped until the wound eventually heals.

SHRUBS

Follow the same instructions for trees, however, most shrubs are resilient and slowly regain their shape as the weather warms. If branches are bent but not broken, you may tie them together to help them along. Do not tie tightly and remove twine after about a year. Again, if the damage is severe, you may need to replace the plant.